Day 7: Dingboche (4410 m) to Lobuche (4940 m).

Yesterday we were told that today was going to be a hard day. I extremely hate that! I prefer either not knowing at all or just hearing that is going to be easy and then solve the difficulty when we encounter it. That made me a bit uneasy since it is at this altitude when I normally start having problems and making my mind stressed didn’t help at all.

The first part of the day was going to be relatively flat and easy but right before lunch a steep hill was awaiting. According to Shankar, if we made it up this hill without problems we would reach the Base Camp with ease. But what if we don´t? I spent the whole morning thinking about the hill.

Another thing that is starting to get complicated is peeing during the day. The forest is almost gone and there are no bushes or trees anymore, just some rocks every now and then. In days like today I really wish I was a man. So besides thinking about the hill I just spend the morning having to pee like every 10 seconds and struggling to find a suitable rock at the right time. So no mindfulness or walking meditation for me today.

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We got to the foot of the hill and we stopped for some snacks and tea before tackling this bad boy. After all, it ended up not being so difficult, though it was really steep I felt it went by quite fast. So apparently now we will all make it to the Base Camp if Shankar´s predictions are right. After that it was really foggy and rainy but it felt so good to get rid of that obstacle that I felt quite at peace. We reached Lobuche right on time for lunch.

Here I have to admit that I started feeling somehow bad, it is that time of the month, I have cramps from hell and all I need is a day alone at home in the sofa with a blanket. One more reason for wishing I was a man today. Lobuche is at 4900 m so after lunch we went for a mini acclimatization walk up to 5000 m. Getting up there was really a struggle because all I could think about was hot chocolate and a blanket but once at the top it really felt worth it.

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This is the Khumbu glacier looking south.
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The Nuptse there somewhere.
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The Khumbu glacier looking north. That white area at the end is the beginning of the Khumbu icefall and where the EBC is located.

We could see the Khumbu glacier for the first time and I felt overwhelmed by seeing the vastness of it. It is GIANT. In front of us there were magnificent views of the Nuptse, which of course was covered in clouds and it was like it was playing hide-and-seek. One second you could see it but before you got your camera ready, it had disappeared. That just really keeps you wanting more so we waited there for a while hoping that the clouds would clear up, which they did and then everything felt ok again.

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Once back at the lodge I had to somehow help a poor girl who has having pretty serious stomach problems. I have also been there so I really felt sympathy for her at the same time that I felt relieved that today, it wasn’t me. All of a sudden I felt so much better just by knowing that I could be feeling worse. The altitude feels so different this time, of course I notice, but it is significantly better. It is getting really cold at night in the rooms, it is not a problem inside the sleeping bag, but going to the bathroom in the middle of the night is not something you look forward to. Nevertheless I feel that I am sleeping really well.

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